The title sucks..I too have sensed it. But I hope it serves the idea best.
Technically, I am gonna rip a conventional bicycle down. This is only a learning procedure and I am not gonna literally shred my ride into pieces. Two reasons. 1. I don't have a ride yet. 2. The money I spend on these rides will more likely be hard-earned (P.S: I didn't say 'hard-earned by me'.)
So, here is the drill. As a newcomer to this arena. I am gonna dissect a bike, part by part and try to understand each of it. I will see what a part is, identify its purpose and if possible will cover some titbits on the design, brands and the models of each component that goes into the bikes I've shortlisted. Sweet, right?
But there is a catch. I don't think that these parts need to be described in detail, marveling on its engineering brilliance and all. I am not gonna review or even mention all the brands out there in the market either. I am just gonna write my feelings out. Remember that I am hunting of an ideal hybrid bike within my range of 25,000/-. Hence I am gonna stick to the specifications of those bikes which I might end up buying. (Wanna see the shortlisted bikes? Click here)
For the time being, I shall enlist the parts based on the Wikipedia list of bike parts. It seems neat.
FRAME
The skeleton of a bike. A lot of frames are butted. Well, butted simply means that they are thicker at the ends. The outside diameter may be constant but on the inside, the walls are thickened. A method by which the frame can be made stronger at the parts of stress and at the same time, is light as well. So, a single butted tube will have one end thicker than the other. A double butted tube will have both the ends with a higher uniform thickness. Triple butted tube will have different diameters on either end and on the leanest section. And then I also found a very informative picture in one of those forums.
Wikipedia for rescue on 6061 alloy too. While 6000 series of aluminum alloys uses silicon and magnesium as primary alloying material, 7000 series uses zinc. Generally 6000 series are best suitable for BMX, trekking and hybrid bikes whereas 7000 series goes well with road bikes and MTBs since they are stronger and lighter.
Hydroforming is a technique used to shape malleable metals like aluminum into complex yet stronger, lighter and rigid shapes using pressurized fluid. Check out this video.
Forging makes metals more stronger and lighter and resistant to cracking.
TIG is Tungsten Inert Gas, an advanced and high quality welding technique in which the weld surface is protected by a shielding gas. Though some manufacturers have highlighted this, I think it is pretty much a standard in almost all aluminum framed quality bikes. Earlier, I used to wonder and even doubt on the quality of welding when I see patterns like this on frames. Now I am kind of happy when i see them on a welded section.
Handlebars
25.4mm (1 inch) is the ISO standard diameter for the clamping area of the handle bar.
Stem
Headset
Fork
When I started this dissection, I had given a cut-off to suspension frames. But there are a couple of bikes with front suspension that caught my attention. Schwinn 2012 Searcher and GT Transeo 4.0. Among them I decided to include GT into my chopping. Still, I am more inclined to the belief that a standard hybrid bike primarily for commuting do not need suspensions. A belief which can only be shattered or strengthened by a first-hand on-road experience.
Seatpost
Saddle
Bottom bracket
Dropout
Suspension
WHEELS
Tire:
Too thin (as in road bikes and racing bikes) = Speed & Too thick (as in MTBs) = Control and comfort. Well, that's what I think and since a hybrid bike is somewhere between these two extremities, the beefiness of the tires can, to a certain extend, decide the experience (the balance between rolling efficiency and comfort) that I am gonna get from my ride. I drive mostly on potholes that have some tarmac in between and occasional trenches(!). Durability and puncher resistance are also mantras that I should be chanting whenever I look at my tires. Commuters usually follow the wheel pattern of road bikes ie ISO 622, 700C wheels. These wheels have 29" outer diameter and I think the 'C' of 700C represents the Clincher rims. Correct me if I am wrong, which in most cases I will be. ;-P
Rims:
Aluminium alloy, double- walled clincher rims are the current industrial standard for commuting bikes.
Hubs
Spoke:
Spokes are bars or wire rods connecting the center of a wheel to its rim. A 36-spoke wheel is considered as a standard by a lot of commuting professionals. I hope this link will give you enough info on the spokes. Anyways, the models I have in mind are decent on this segment.
Spoke nipple:
These are specialized nuts at the end of spokes used to adjust the tension in the spokes.
Valve stem:
I have not yet found relevant information on these and how it would affect my choice.
Quick release skewer:
Now this was something I was particular about while shortlisting my choices. I would be doing a lot of bike packing so easy and hassle free diss-assembly and re-assembly is important. The answer is quick release skewer. Most of the bike models had them in the front wheel but I will give a +1 for any model that has 'em on both the wheel-set.
DRIVETRAIN
This is the system that transmits power from the rider to the drive wheels. Pretty important.
Pedal
Well, It was fascinating to see those videos in which the riders do the attaching and releasing of those sleek cleats from the pedals. Clip-less pedals which attach to the shoes of the rider can enhance the speed and performance of the ride. It also prevents feet from slipping off the pedals and hence enhances safety. Yeah, it requires a bit of getting used to but they say that once you get used to it, clip-less pedals become invaluable bikers possessions. However, to start with, a normal sturdy platform pedal would do fine, I guess. Anyways, it would be a worthwhile investment to buy a pair of clip-less pedals as I become more seasoned with cycling. I already have a Shimano PD-M324 in my mind. This is a multipurpose pedal which has a clip-less attachment on one side and a platform on the other so that my normal shoes can also go with them.
Crankset & Sprocket
The reciprocating motion that is put into the pedals is converted to rotational motion by the crankset through the chains.Simply put, pushing a pedal rotates the wheel. The push is essentially converted into rotation by the crankset and is passed on to the real wheel through the chains. The front sprockets or the chainrings are attached to the crankset.
Bottom brackets
Experts recommend frames with low bottom brackets for hybrid bikes. Most hybrid bikes are designed like a mountain bike in which the bottom brackets are usually placed in a higher position to avoid hitting obstacles on the path. As far as hybrid bikes are concerned, they are not sturdy enough for the mountains and high bottom brackets mostly mean that frequent mounting and dismounting would be more difficult. Most models hosted a cartridge bottom bracket. They make servicing and replacing of bottom brackets simpler. They have two parts, a unit that holds the spindle and bearings, attaching to the bottom bracket shell of the frame from the drive side and an alloy or plastic support cup that, well, supports the spindle and bearings from the non-drive side.
Chain
Cogset
Shimano Tourney is an entry-level cassette yet it is highly reputed. Shimano has discontinued the 11-34 teeth cassettes and hence 14-34t is kind of an Industrial standard. Shimano and SRAM seem to be involved in a tight competition in which Shimano is in lead. Nevertheless, SRAM does have some serious fans too..yeah, its one among those dilemmas. For those who are familiar with these gear ratio and stuffs, I think this link will mean something. For me most parts of it just went over the head. Period.
Derailleur gears or Hub gears
A derailleur gear is called so simply because it derails the chain from sprocket to sprocket to attain various transmission. In hub gears, the gear mechanism is built inside the rear hub of the bike. Oh, you want some Derailleur Vs Hub gear stuff? Check it out here. Most bikes of my selection has Shimano gears. All the pages and reviews about them boils down to this: Alivio> Acera> Altus> Tourney.
Gear case
If you ask me, they spoil the looks. I prefer the rugged, naked drivetrain. But the grease tattoos that they are notorious for tames my dislike towards the gear case. Anyways, none of my models has one and maybe I will procure it as an additional accessory later. Most of 'em do have chain-guards though.
CABLING
Shifter
Brake systems
Phew!!!
That's pretty much it!!...This post was so much of an ordeal for me. Learned a lot about bikes and biking. The only thing that's worrying me right now is that I took sooooo long in completing this that by the time I am posting this, most of the models would have become outdated! :-P
I will be posting my choice of bike soon enough. Do let me know what you guys think about it, right?
Technically, I am gonna rip a conventional bicycle down. This is only a learning procedure and I am not gonna literally shred my ride into pieces. Two reasons. 1. I don't have a ride yet. 2. The money I spend on these rides will more likely be hard-earned (P.S: I didn't say 'hard-earned by me'.)
So, here is the drill. As a newcomer to this arena. I am gonna dissect a bike, part by part and try to understand each of it. I will see what a part is, identify its purpose and if possible will cover some titbits on the design, brands and the models of each component that goes into the bikes I've shortlisted. Sweet, right?
But there is a catch. I don't think that these parts need to be described in detail, marveling on its engineering brilliance and all. I am not gonna review or even mention all the brands out there in the market either. I am just gonna write my feelings out. Remember that I am hunting of an ideal hybrid bike within my range of 25,000/-. Hence I am gonna stick to the specifications of those bikes which I might end up buying. (Wanna see the shortlisted bikes? Click here)
For the time being, I shall enlist the parts based on the Wikipedia list of bike parts. It seems neat.
FRAME
The skeleton of a bike. A lot of frames are butted. Well, butted simply means that they are thicker at the ends. The outside diameter may be constant but on the inside, the walls are thickened. A method by which the frame can be made stronger at the parts of stress and at the same time, is light as well. So, a single butted tube will have one end thicker than the other. A double butted tube will have both the ends with a higher uniform thickness. Triple butted tube will have different diameters on either end and on the leanest section. And then I also found a very informative picture in one of those forums.
Wikipedia for rescue on 6061 alloy too. While 6000 series of aluminum alloys uses silicon and magnesium as primary alloying material, 7000 series uses zinc. Generally 6000 series are best suitable for BMX, trekking and hybrid bikes whereas 7000 series goes well with road bikes and MTBs since they are stronger and lighter.
Hydroforming is a technique used to shape malleable metals like aluminum into complex yet stronger, lighter and rigid shapes using pressurized fluid. Check out this video.
Forging makes metals more stronger and lighter and resistant to cracking.
TIG is Tungsten Inert Gas, an advanced and high quality welding technique in which the weld surface is protected by a shielding gas. Though some manufacturers have highlighted this, I think it is pretty much a standard in almost all aluminum framed quality bikes. Earlier, I used to wonder and even doubt on the quality of welding when I see patterns like this on frames. Now I am kind of happy when i see them on a welded section.
FRAME
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
All-New Schwinn Sport Hybrid 700c Triple-Butted Aluminum
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
All-New Schwinn Sport Hybrid 700c Triple-Butted Aluminum
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Quick, butted 6061 alloy, SAVE
|
|
GT Traffic 7000 aluminum frame with hydroformed PG top
tube, Internal cable routing, forged drop-outs, chainstay disc mounts,
removable derailleur hanger, all braze-ons, GT TT bumpers
|
||
?
|
||
Alloy hybrid
|
||
Stylish TIG Welded Alloy Hardtail Frame
|
||
FX
Alpha White Aluminium
|
||
Hydroformed / 6061 Aluminum Frame, Triple Triangle™ Frame
Construction, Forged Bottom Bracket, Dropouts, and 1 1/8" Head Tube
|
||
Handlebars
25.4mm (1 inch) is the ISO standard diameter for the clamping area of the handle bar.
HANDLEBAR
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
Schwinn S3 Sport Steel, 25.4, 25mm rise
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
Schwinn S3 Sport Alloy, 25.4, 25mm rise
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Cannondale C4, 6061 alloy, 25 mm rise
|
|
GT All Terra Alloy MTB Riser Bar w/ 25.4 Clamp
|
||
25.4MM CLAMP,RISE 26MM W/O LOGO
|
||
Steel 600mm,30mm rise
|
||
?
|
||
Bontrager Approved steel, 30mm rise
|
||
GT All Terra Alloy Riser Bar, 640
|
||
GRIPS
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
Schwinn Sport Ergo Grips
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
Schwinn Sport Ergo Grips
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
?
|
|
GT Dual Density Comfort design
|
||
VELLO
|
||
?
|
||
?
|
||
Bontrager Satellite Dual Density
|
||
?
|
||
Stem
STEM
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
Schwinn S3 Sport Alloy, 25.4
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
Schwinn S3 Sport Alloy, 25.4
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Cannondale C4, 31.8
|
|
GT All Terra Alloy Ahead type w/Pinhead locking ahead cap
|
||
25.4MM
|
||
ZOOM Alloy adjustable, 28.6mm
|
||
?
|
||
Bontrager Approved alloy 15 degree
|
||
GT Alloy Ahead type
|
||
Headset
HEADSET
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
FSA Threadless, 1 1/8"
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
FSA Threadless, 1 1/8"
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Tange Custom Si
|
|
1 1/8" sealed mech Ahead
|
||
VP
|
||
Steel 1-1/8" threadless
|
||
?
|
||
Slimstak, semi cartridge bearings, sealed
|
||
FSA Integrated with cartridge bearings
|
||
Fork
When I started this dissection, I had given a cut-off to suspension frames. But there are a couple of bikes with front suspension that caught my attention. Schwinn 2012 Searcher and GT Transeo 4.0. Among them I decided to include GT into my chopping. Still, I am more inclined to the belief that a standard hybrid bike primarily for commuting do not need suspensions. A belief which can only be shattered or strengthened by a first-hand on-road experience.
FORKS
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
Schwinn Rigid Steel, 1 1/8"
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
Schwinn Rigid Alloy, 1 1/8"
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Quick, 6061 Alloy, 1 1/8" steerer
|
|
Traffic rigid fork, hydroformed alloy legs, V-brake
bosses, rack /fender eyelets, alloy steerer.
|
||
700C, UNICROWN, HI-TEN BENDING OVAL BLADES TAPER
|
||
?
|
||
?
|
||
High tensile steel with low-rider mounts, straight blades
|
||
SR NEX4110 w/63mm Travel, QR, coil spring pre-load adjust,
fender mounts
|
||
Seatpost
SEAT POST
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
Schwinn S2 Sport Alloy, 27.2 x 350
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
Schwinn S2 Sport Alloy, 27.2 x 350
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Cannondale C4 6061 alloy, 27.2 mm, 350 mm
|
|
GT design alloy seat pillar
|
||
27.2x300MM
|
||
Steel 27.2 X 300mm
|
||
?
|
||
Bontrager SSR, alloy
|
||
GT All Terra 2 bolt with forged head
|
||
Saddle
SADDLE
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
Schwinn S1 Sport Ergo
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
Schwinn S1 Sport Ergo
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Cannondale Quick Ergo Performance
|
|
GT Traffic saddle with integrated tailight
|
||
JUSTEK W/"BIANCHI" LOGO
|
||
?
|
||
With quick release
|
||
Bontrager SSR
|
||
GT All TERRA with Bio-Morphic design
|
||
Bottom bracket
Dropout
Suspension
WHEELS
Tire:
Too thin (as in road bikes and racing bikes) = Speed & Too thick (as in MTBs) = Control and comfort. Well, that's what I think and since a hybrid bike is somewhere between these two extremities, the beefiness of the tires can, to a certain extend, decide the experience (the balance between rolling efficiency and comfort) that I am gonna get from my ride. I drive mostly on potholes that have some tarmac in between and occasional trenches(!). Durability and puncher resistance are also mantras that I should be chanting whenever I look at my tires. Commuters usually follow the wheel pattern of road bikes ie ISO 622, 700C wheels. These wheels have 29" outer diameter and I think the 'C' of 700C represents the Clincher rims. Correct me if I am wrong, which in most cases I will be. ;-P
TIRES
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
Duro Spitfire, 700 x 38c
|
US Company. Spitfire is included under the Mountain XC
category in Duro products. Nice tires.
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
Duro Spitfire, 700 x 38c
|
US company. Spitfire is included under the Mountain XC
category in Duro products. Nice tires.
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Kenda Kwick Trax, 700 X 38c
|
Taiwan Company. Reputed.
|
700x35c Schwalbe Roadcruiser with puncture protection and reflective sidewalls
|
Company: Bohle, Germany
|
|
C.S.T 700Cx38C
|
||
DSI 700 X 35C
|
Sri Lankan Company
|
|
Nylon tyre & Butyl tube with A/V
|
||
Bontrager H2, 700x35c
|
||
Innova Land Tracker with Puncture Guard, 40c, 700c
|
Taiwan company. Good.
|
|
Rims:
Aluminium alloy, double- walled clincher rims are the current industrial standard for commuting bikes.
RIMS
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
Weinmann ZAC19 doublewall 32 Hole
|
Chinese Company, Respected.
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
Weinmann ZAC19 doublewall 32 Hole
|
Chinese Company, Respected.
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Jalco DT 21
|
?
|
Alex ACE-17 Double Wall Alloy Trekking, 36h
|
I am impressed
|
|
700C, 14Gx36H
|
?
|
|
Alloy 36H
|
?
|
|
Aero profile alloy rims
|
||
Bontrager 750 32-hole double-wall alloy
rims
|
Couldn’t find the rim of exact spec but the company seems
to be one of the best out there.
|
|
Alex ACE-17 Double wall with CNC 32 FR, 32 RR Holetheir specification table.
|
||
Hubs
HUBS
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
KT Alloy 32 Hole
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
KT Alloy 32 Hole
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Alloy Freehub, Pinhead locking QR
|
|
Alloy Freehub, Pinhead locking QR
|
||
?
|
||
?
|
||
?
|
||
Formula
FM-21FQR 32H;Rear Hub: Formula FM31RQ 32hole Black
|
||
All Terra Sealed Mech Alum, with QR 32 FR, 32 RR Hole
|
||
Spoke:
Spokes are bars or wire rods connecting the center of a wheel to its rim. A 36-spoke wheel is considered as a standard by a lot of commuting professionals. I hope this link will give you enough info on the spokes. Anyways, the models I have in mind are decent on this segment.
Spoke nipple:
These are specialized nuts at the end of spokes used to adjust the tension in the spokes.
SPOKES
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
14 gauge stainless
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
14 gauge stainless
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
15 gauge stainless
|
|
14 gauge stainless
|
||
14 gauge steel (I don’t
know whether it is stainless or not. It should be)
|
||
?
|
||
?
|
||
?
|
||
Stainless Steel 14 G
|
||
Valve stem:
I have not yet found relevant information on these and how it would affect my choice.
Quick release skewer:
Now this was something I was particular about while shortlisting my choices. I would be doing a lot of bike packing so easy and hassle free diss-assembly and re-assembly is important. The answer is quick release skewer. Most of the bike models had them in the front wheel but I will give a +1 for any model that has 'em on both the wheel-set.
DRIVETRAIN
This is the system that transmits power from the rider to the drive wheels. Pretty important.
Pedal
Well, It was fascinating to see those videos in which the riders do the attaching and releasing of those sleek cleats from the pedals. Clip-less pedals which attach to the shoes of the rider can enhance the speed and performance of the ride. It also prevents feet from slipping off the pedals and hence enhances safety. Yeah, it requires a bit of getting used to but they say that once you get used to it, clip-less pedals become invaluable bikers possessions. However, to start with, a normal sturdy platform pedal would do fine, I guess. Anyways, it would be a worthwhile investment to buy a pair of clip-less pedals as I become more seasoned with cycling. I already have a Shimano PD-M324 in my mind. This is a multipurpose pedal which has a clip-less attachment on one side and a platform on the other so that my normal shoes can also go with them.
PEDALS
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
Resin body with steel cage
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
Resin body with steel cage
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Quick Reinforced Composite
|
|
High Impact nylon Comfort
|
||
VP (?)
| ||
WELLGO PP
|
||
?
|
||
Nylon platform
|
||
GT Nylon trekking
|
||
Crankset & Sprocket
The reciprocating motion that is put into the pedals is converted to rotational motion by the crankset through the chains.Simply put, pushing a pedal rotates the wheel. The push is essentially converted into rotation by the crankset and is passed on to the real wheel through the chains. The front sprockets or the chainrings are attached to the crankset.
CRANKSET
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
Shimano M131 48/38/28t
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
Shimano M171 48/38/28t
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Shimano M131, 48/38/28
|
|
Suntour XCC 48,38,28 w/ chaincase
|
||
PROWHEEL 48/38/28T
|
||
Steel 28/38/48, 170mm Alloy crank
|
||
Shimano M171, 48/38/28 w/chainguard
|
||
Suntour XCC 48/38/28
|
||
Bottom brackets
Experts recommend frames with low bottom brackets for hybrid bikes. Most hybrid bikes are designed like a mountain bike in which the bottom brackets are usually placed in a higher position to avoid hitting obstacles on the path. As far as hybrid bikes are concerned, they are not sturdy enough for the mountains and high bottom brackets mostly mean that frequent mounting and dismounting would be more difficult. Most models hosted a cartridge bottom bracket. They make servicing and replacing of bottom brackets simpler. They have two parts, a unit that holds the spindle and bearings, attaching to the bottom bracket shell of the frame from the drive side and an alloy or plastic support cup that, well, supports the spindle and bearings from the non-drive side.
BOTTOM BRACKET
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
Cartridge
|
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
Cartridge
|
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Tange Cartridge
|
Japanese Company
|
Shimano Cartridge sealed
|
||
VP
|
||
VP-BC73 Sealed Cartridge
|
||
VP BC-73C 68/124.9
|
||
Tange Cartridge sealed
|
Japanese Company
|
|
Chain
CHAIN
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
KMC Z51, 7-speed
|
Expeditious articulating, extended compatibility, smooth
transmission, noise reduction
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
KMC Z72, 8-speed
|
Expeditious articulating, extended compatibility, high pin
power, smooth transmission, noise reduction, EXDU additional durability
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
KMC Z72, 8-speed
|
Expeditious articulating, extended compatibility, high pin
power, smooth transmission, noise reduction, EXDU additional durability
|
KMC HG-40
|
Expeditious articulating, smooth transmission, noise
reduction
|
|
KMC
|
||
?
|
||
KMC Z51 Brown
|
Expeditious articulating, extended compatibility, smooth
transmission, noise reduction link
|
|
KMX HG-40, 8-speed
|
Expeditious articulating, smooth transmission, noise
reduction
|
|
Cogset
Shimano Tourney is an entry-level cassette yet it is highly reputed. Shimano has discontinued the 11-34 teeth cassettes and hence 14-34t is kind of an Industrial standard. Shimano and SRAM seem to be involved in a tight competition in which Shimano is in lead. Nevertheless, SRAM does have some serious fans too..yeah, its one among those dilemmas. For those who are familiar with these gear ratio and stuffs, I think this link will mean something. For me most parts of it just went over the head. Period.
COGSET/ REAR COGS
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
|
Shimano Tourney, 14-34t, 7-speed
|
The most popular ones.
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
|
SRAM PG-830, 11-28t, 8-speed
|
11 teeth cog on the rear. And 8 speed too.
|
Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
SunRace CSM668, 11-32
|
This US company is getting a lot of thrashing when compared
to the Shimano and SRAM components. I wonder why Cannondale is sporting one. link
|
Shimano Hyperglide 8-speed 11-32
|
Hmm.. 8 speed!
|
|
SHIMANO 8-SPEED, 11/32T
|
8 speed + 11 -32 teeth= more speed.
|
|
?
|
||
21-spd Shimano Tourney
|
||
Shimano 14-34, 7 speed
|
||
Shimano Hyperglide 8-speed 11-32
|
Hmm.. 8 speed!
|
|
Derailleur gears or Hub gears
A derailleur gear is called so simply because it derails the chain from sprocket to sprocket to attain various transmission. In hub gears, the gear mechanism is built inside the rear hub of the bike. Oh, you want some Derailleur Vs Hub gear stuff? Check it out here. Most bikes of my selection has Shimano gears. All the pages and reviews about them boils down to this: Alivio> Acera> Altus> Tourney.
FRONT DERAILLEUR
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Brand & Model
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Specification
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Remarks
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Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
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Shimano Altus
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Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
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Shimano Altus
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Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
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Shimano M191
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? I think they are Altus system
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Shimano FM-191
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? I think they are Altus system
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SHIMANO SIS(Shimano Index System)
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SHIMANO TX51
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Tourney
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Shimano
Tourney
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Shimano M191
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? I think they are Altus system
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Shimano FD-M191
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? I think they are Altus system
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REAR DERAILLEUR
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Brand & Model
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Specification
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Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
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Shimano Altus-7 speed
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Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
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Shimano Alivio
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Great budget RD. Clearly, not made for heavy duty stuffs.
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Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
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Shimano Altus M310
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Shimano Acera 8spd
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ALTUS 8-SPD
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SHIMANO TX51D
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Shimano Tourney- 7 speed
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Shimano Acera
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Shimano Acera 8spd
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Gear case
If you ask me, they spoil the looks. I prefer the rugged, naked drivetrain. But the grease tattoos that they are notorious for tames my dislike towards the gear case. Anyways, none of my models has one and maybe I will procure it as an additional accessory later. Most of 'em do have chain-guards though.
CABLING
Shifter
SHIFTERS
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Brand & Model
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Specification
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Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
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Shimano EF51
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Altus
Average user rating: 3.3/5
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Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
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Shimano EF51
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Altus
Average user rating: 3.3/5
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Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Shimano Alivio M310, 8-speed
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sweet
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Shimano EF-50 Rapid Fire plus 8spd
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Altus
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Shimano EF-51
|
Altus
Average user rating: 3.3/5
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SHIMANO EF51, 7 speed
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Shimano EF 50 EZY fire
|
Altus
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Shimano EF51, 7 speed trigger
|
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Shimano EF-51 Rapid Fire 8-speed
|
Altus
Average user rating: 3.3/5
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Brake systems
BRAKES
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||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
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Schwinn Alloy V-Brake
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Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
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Schwinn Alloy V-Brake
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Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
|
Tektro TX 120 V-Brakes
|
US Company. Usually fine brakes
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Direct pull, with 110 mm arms
|
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LEECHI V-BRAKE
|
Taiwan company
|
|
V brakes
|
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Tektro V-brakes with Shimano EF51 levers
|
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Tektro Direct pull w 70 mm arms
|
US Company. Usually fine brakes
|
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BRAKE LEVERS
|
||
Brand & Model
|
Specification
|
Remarks
|
Schwinn 2012 Sporterra
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Shimano EF51
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Schwinn 2012 Sporterra Sport
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Shimano EF51
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Cannondale 2012 Quick 5
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Cannondale CBL 8.0
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Shimano EF-50
|
||
Shimano EZ 50
|
||
?
|
||
?
|
||
Shimano EZ-Fire ST-
|
||
Shimano EF-51 Rapid Fire 8-speed
|
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Phew!!!
That's pretty much it!!...This post was so much of an ordeal for me. Learned a lot about bikes and biking. The only thing that's worrying me right now is that I took sooooo long in completing this that by the time I am posting this, most of the models would have become outdated! :-P
I will be posting my choice of bike soon enough. Do let me know what you guys think about it, right?
Without opinions and bias, just the bare facts, woven together with what you think is most relevant. As a newbie born again cyclist trying to get back into this world which I left a decade ago, this write up is just awesome.
ReplyDeletePlease pat yourself on the back for a job really well done.
Thanks a lot!! Your comment just made my day brighter. Welcome back to biking.
DeleteAppreciate your efforts and dedication dear writer
ReplyDelete